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My hood liner insulators are made of ¼ inch thick closed-cell vinyl nitrile in the form of a mat, smooth on one side and very durable, effective to over 225 degrees F. This material is made for aircraft firewalls and bulkheads and is far superior to the original hood liner. It's FAA-approved, and as such must stand up to forces and temperature fluctuations that our cars don't experience. It holds up very well, much better than the OEM hood pad and any other reproductions, keeps the exterior of the hood cool and will not reflect engine heat back down toward your intake. This liner is in one piece, and will NOT soak up any underhood fluids or lubricants! A heat-resistant silver vinyl decal comes with the liner. Please let me know if you'd like the decals in another color other than silver. Available colors are red, blue, white, orange, yellow and green. Silver is the most popular color, the others may require a few extra days for me to get for you. FYI: these decals WILL NOT adhere to the stock liners due to the type of fiberglass material the stock ones are made of. It's been tried before and they just won't stick!
The liner material itself is not stiff; it won't "stick out" like the factory liner which has some "give". My liner will adhere to the ridges and contours of the underhood area, using 3M #80 spray-on adhesive found at the Home Depot - Lowe's doesn't carry it. This gives more clearance underneath while ensuring insulation - helpful if you have current rubbing issues due to export braces or pulleys, etc. In fact the side that faces out is smooth and won't soak up any oil or engine fluids.
I've been to a LOT of car shows and I've seen MANY, MANY dirty original hoodliners. I spoke with several car owners and they're receptive and interested in having me make them a hoodliner to clean up their underhood area. How about your car? And what's the big deal about the hoodliner anyway? Because a dirty and torn original liner will DETRACT from the appearance of your engine bay, no matter how clean your engine is, even if it's better than on the day it rolled off the factory line! Take a look at your original liner if you have one - can you use my help? If you don't have a liner and your underhood gets dirty, could you use one of mine? Want to stand out at a car show or a meet with my aircraft liner and decal? People have e-mailed and called me saying the hoodliner gets noticed before the engine and components! What a compliment!
My liners have been brought to the attention of Roush restoration department and to Steve Saleen (in person by a buyer) and they are both indicating that my liner is made of a high quality material that is a better alternative to the stock insulation.
I can offer hood liner heat shield insulation insulator pads for these vehicles, with more makes and models on the way as owners request them from me:
1986 to 1997 Thunderbird and Cougar - Includes the 1987/1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and the MN-12 Super Coupe!
2002 to 2005 Thunderbird
1984 to 1992 Lincoln Mark VII & LSC (Luxury Sports Coupe)
1993 to 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII & LSC (Luxury Sports Coupe - $95 larger liner, Gen 1 and Gen 2)
1964 to 2010 Mustang - includes the '74 to '78 Mustang II, '79 to '82 Pace Cars & Turbo, the '84 to '86 SVO and '93 through 2004 Cobra, 4-cylinder, V6, V8 LX 5.0 302, GT, Shelby, Mach 1, shaker hood, 4.6 281, Foose, Saleen, Roush, Steeda, etc.
1979 to 1986 Mercury Capri (used the 1979 to 1982 Mustang non-Turbo liner)
1988 to 2009 Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis, includes the Colony Park Wagon ($95 larger liner - I need to know if you need the underhood light opening cut for you)
2003 to 2004 Mercury Marauder ($95 larger liner)
1989 to 1997 Ford Probe, including Probe GT
1999 to 2003 Ford F-150 ($95 larger liner)
2000 to 2004 Ford Focus (SE, ZTS, ZX3, 2DR, 4DR, LX, SVT, etc)
2006 to 2009 Ford Fusion (SE, SEL, I-4, V6)
2010 Ford Taurus (SE, SEL, Limited, SHO FWD & AWD)
1982 to 1987 Buick Grand National and Turbo Regal, regular Regal
1977 to 1982 Chevy Corvette
2007 to 2009 Chevy Corvette (without an underhood light) ($95 larger liner)
1978 to 1987 Chevy El Camino ($95 larger liner)
1981 to 1988 Chevy Monte Carlo SS ($95 larger liner)
2006 to 2007 Chevy Monte Carlo SS
2006 to 2008 Chevy Impala (uses the 2006 to 2007 Monte Carlo liner)
1980 to 1990 Chevy Caprice ($95 larger liner)
1982 to 1992 Chevy Camaro ($95 larger liner - including IROC-Z, Z-28)
1993 to 1997 Chevy Camaro (might fit 1998 to 2002 Camaro as well - unsure)
2006 to 2008 Dodge Charger (SRT-8 coming soon!)
1981 to 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1982 to 1992 Pontiac Firebird (Trans-Am?)
1993 to 2002 Pontiac Firebird Formula (Trans-Am? Collector's Edition? Firehawk?)
1969 to 1970 Pontiac Grand Prix
1997 to 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/GTP
1987 to 1991 BMW 325i
1979 to 1983 Fiat Type 124
1987 to 1991 Toyota Camry
1979 to 1981 Toyota Celica Supra
1998 to 2002 Toyota Corolla (my father-in-law wanted one!)
1985 to 2001 Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer/Comanche
1993 to 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
1988 to 1994 Lincoln Continental
1990 to 1997 Lincoln Town Car ($95 larger liner)
1977 to 1991 Jaguar XJ-S V-12 ($95 larger liner)
1988 to 1994 Jaguar XJ-6 and Vanden Plas ($95 larger liner)
2003 to 2008 Jaguar X-Type ($95 larger liner)
1986 to 1987 Mercedes Benz 190E
I can do liners for many other cars if yours isn't listed here, just ask! You don't have to send me your original liner but I do have a procedure for sending me a template from your original using a dollar store shower curtain. I'm looking forward to making my liners for the 2010 Ford Fusion, and hopefully the Chrysler Crossfire and new 2010 Chevy Camaro.
Note: I recently made a liner for a 1967 Mustang and it came out great! Since the Mustang didn't have a liner until the 1969 model year, I measured out a section of liner material at 42 inches wide x 43 inches tall and then trimmed-to-fit using an X-acto knife for the rounded corners and the underhood turn signal indicators. The owner opted for 3 running horses in honor of his 3 granddaughters and he is immensely pleased with the way it came out! I can make liners then for the 1964 to 1968, and the 1971 to 1973 Mustangs in the same manner. I just need to know the dimensions underneath and I can send you a section of liner material that will need to be installed with the 3M #80 spray adhesive.
Here's an e-mail I received from a buyer of one of my hoodliners, an owner who is very meticulous about his car:
<< Thanks! It's not too often you find someone that stands by what they sell. You have gone above what I have ever dealt with. You have a good product, it looks better than the stock one because you can customize it to the way you want it. I have had so many people notice the hoodliner before they see the motor! Thanks!! I could not have ever been able to buy the original. I'll be sending you some pics soon and I will keep spreading the word about a man that stands behind his product. >>
Here's another e-mail from a recent buyer for his Fox body ('87 - '93) Mustang GT:
<< I was thinking about just ditching my liner since the old one was all crusty, falling apart, and brownish looking. That was until I saw that my hood didn't have much paint down the center, Ford must have gotten cheap and not done underneath the hood very well. I didn't know what to do until I saw your liners and bought one with the running pony decal. It was easy to put on and looks great! Taking the hood off, cleaning it, installing the liner, decal, and then putting it back on the car was not a problem at all, your instructions were very detailed. Plus the end result is that my underhood now looks clean and I don't have to worry about it anymore! I get comments about it and people ask where they can get one too! Thanks again, this hoodliner is very cool! >>
One more e-mail from a recent buyer for her husband's Fox body '91 Mustang GT convertible:
<< Thank you! I am absolutely thrilled with the liner and he'll be so surprised!! You are the best seller I've encountered! >>
Still more:
<< You the man, thanks a million!! Looks excellent by the way. Clean & smooth! Your customer service is excellent. I would HIGHLY recommend your product to ANYONE!!! That's how you keep happy customers! MUCHO appreciated! >>
<< I just received the hood liner today and am totally impressed! I am so glad I found your liners and can't wait to get it installed in my SEXY Stang! :) I have been working on my car for 3 yrs now - upgrading the look and motor - this item is perfect and by far the best item yet! My husband is also rebuilding an older Mustang and I am going to make sure he orders one of your hoodliners for it too! Many thanks! I can't even express how happy I am! >>
<< I just wanted to let you know that I was in a car show Saturday and I got 1st place in the 79-present Mustang Class. I really need to thank you for the great hoodliner because I think it gave me a huge advantage against the competition. Thank you so much! >>
"Wow, just got the hood insulator on today. Looks awesome!, really easy installation, you have great customer service, and so far, as far as I'm concerned, a great product! I appreciate the friendliness/helpfulness in our transaction and basically since I first sent you an email. My dad helped me install the hood insulator and I do believe you will be making us another for his 81 Vette in the future. He has to put together his new engine first but my dad was really impressed with how nice this hood insulator dresses up the engine compartment. Thanks again and we'll be talking soon about making us another. And I hope you don't mind I will be recommending you and your product to all of my car buddies. Thanks again."
"Thanks for being so quick! By the way, I love it! The material is wonderful!!! The logo is sweet too!"
Compare this hood liner to the factory original or factory replacement (if it's even available!). This liner is fire retardant, insulates against heat and sound, resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and will not rot but it's not indestructible. If you pull it too hard or gouge it with a tool it will tear. Handle it carefully. It is washable and comes with a colorful decal. The original liner made out of fiberglass latex foam is not fire retardant, and somewhat insulates against heat and sound. The original liner is not resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and it will rot and come apart. The original also didn't come with a decal. OK, some models had embossing, but it's hard to see and doesn't stand out - especially with a dirty factory liner.
Used as a hoodliner/sound barrier/absorber for soundproofing the car engine compartments of cars and trucks, it is also useful for boats, (won't absorb moisture) and RVs and their generator compartments. Gives a better appearance than the stock foam hoodliner.
If you have a show car or enter your car in shows my liner will set your engine bay apart from the others. If your car is a daily driver this liner will still make your underhood look great! It adds a cleaner look to your engine compartment. How many car shows have you gone to or seen pictures of on the internet and while the engines look super-clean the hoodliners are filthy? I've personally seen it may times! I can remedy this!
The liner is pre-cut to fit your car with mounting holes punched, and cut-outs for lights and intercoolers, air scoops. etc. Installation is easy using 3M #80 spray adhesive, found at Home Depot in the glue/adhesive section in the paint area. Lowes doesn't carry it! 3M #80 adhesive is the ONLY spray-on adhesive recommended for this liner as it stands up to the heat. Use of any other adhesive can cause the liner to sag or come loose, interfering with throttle linkage, pulleys, fan belts, engine components, etc.
You can see the images of this liner, and it really is far better than the OEM hood pad. I have this liner installed on my own daily driver 1997 Ford Thunderbird Limited Edition, with a decal, and it holds up very well! The 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII above is my car as well and it has my liner with a Lincoln logo. It keeps the exterior of the hood cool and will not reflect engine heat back down toward your intake. I've had my liner installed for over 2 years now, and it looks exactly like the day I installed it. It hasn't gotten dirty at all!
Remove the hood, (mark your bolt mountings) remove/discard all the old insulation. If you have the plastic hood tabs pry them up gently in a back-and-forth twisting motion while prying up - you'll be re-using them after you clean them. Place hood on a worktable with the underside up. Clean the hood underside thoroughly; “Simple Green”, "Orange Glo", "Zep", or your favorite degreaser and rags/paper towels work well. Test fit the liner dry to line it up with the hood and the fastener holes. It’s pre-cut to fit without trimming but if you stretch it, don't worry, you can trim it with an X-Acto knife. Mask off outer areas that aren't going to be covered to protect from overspray. Apply the 3M #80 adhesive to both material and hood. Apply and press down well. Re-attach the plastic hood pins, you'll see how flush they sit now. I don't carry the pins but you can get them at Auto Zone or any good auto parts store, even the junkyard!
The hood MUST come off for proper installation of the liner - this is NOT a big deal! Why does the hood have to come off? It comes off because the liner must be installed with spray adhesive and if you don't mask off areas then the glue will get onto places you don't want glue on, such as the windshield, the engine, fenders, cowling, etc. It would get VERY messy. Plus gravity will work against you and your arms will get tired trying to work with them above your head. Ever try cleaning the ceiling fan blades? Your arms hurt after a while, right? My liner is not stiff like the original, it's made of a SUPERIOR material and installing it with just the plastic hood pins and no adhesive is not recommended. It will SAG in areas not held in by clips! If you have a helper then removal of the hood and installation back on the car with the new liner will take about an hour. You can lay your hood on a large worktable or a plywood on a couple of sawhorses, cushioned with some old blankets or sheets to protect the paint. I include instructions for both the liner and the decals, and in those instructions I provide my AT&T Cingular cell phone number if you need my help during installation. So far no one has called needing my help so it's not impossible to install my liner!
Here's a link to all my images on Flickr, you'll see many pictures that people have sent in and ones that I took myself during and after the install of the liner:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47561275@N00
Keep in mind that if you were to find factory hoodliners/insulation pads they would run anywhere from $100 or MORE depending on model year and availability. That's IF they are available - they readily aren't, not at the dealerships' parts departments - they have to order them and they're made of the same stock pressed fiberglass! Most of the original hood insulation pads have been discontinued from the factory and are difficult if not impossible to locate! Even if you did find one get ready to pay oversized shipping! Guess what? They're made of the original inferior material. They wouldn't have the same quality as mine and will become dirty and rot with time - bringing you right back to square one! Plus you'd be paying MORE than what I charge for my liner and you'd be getting an INFERIOR product. Do a Google search to confirm this!
Some examples of other cars I can provide liners for, and this list can be expanded on, (okay - so these are keywords too!):
Honda Accord Civic Hybrid Prelude, Toyota Camry, Avanti, Audi, Cadillac, Chrysler, 300, Crossfire, Cobalt, Delorean DMC, Challenger, Charger, SRT8, Dodge Avenger, Viper, Ferrari, Hemi, Isuzu, Lamborghini, Maserati, Mazda, Mercedes Benz hood pad, Lotus, Magnum, Motorsport, Motorcraft, Lexus, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Datsun, Pantera, Peugeot, Pontiac, Solstice, Saab, Saturn Sky, Subaru, Plymouth, Mazda RX7 hood liner, Renault, Rodeo, Skylark, Stage 1, Trans Am, Firebird, Impala SS, Volkswagen, Volkswagon, VW, Volvo, Acura, Oldsmobile Cutlass Hurst Olds 442 W-30, W-31, Rocket, 350, F-150, F-250, Ranger, Edge, Escape, Fusion, Taurus EcoBoost, Focus, Flex, Explorer, Expedition, Windstar, Freestar, Freestyle, Transit Connect, hood blanket, bonnet shield, 1964 ('64), 1965 ('65), 1966 ('66), 1967 ('67), 1968 ('68), 1969 ('69), 1970 ('70), 1971 ('71), 1972 ('72), 1973 ('73), 1974 ('74), 1975 ('75), 1976 ('76), 1977 ('77), 1978 ('78), 1979 ('79), 1980 ('80), 1981 ('81), 1982 ('82), 1983 ('83), 1984 ('84), 1985 ('85), 1986 ('86) including SVO, 1987 ('87), 1988 ('88), 1989 ('89), 1990 ('90), 1991 ('91), 1992 ('92), 1993 ('93), 1994 ('94), 1995, ('95), 1996 ('96), 1997 ('97), 1998 ('98), 1999 ('99), 2000 ('00), 2001 ('01), 2002 ('02), 2003 ('03), 2004 ('04), 2005 ('05), 2006 ('06), 2007 ('07), 2008 ('08), 2009 ('09), 2010 ('10), GT, GT Premium, Cobra, 35th Anniversary, 40th Anniversary, 45th Anniversary, California Special, Boss, Shinoda, Legacy, Stroker, 5.0 LX 302 V8, 4.6 281, and V6 model years, including convertible, coupes, hardtops, 4 cylinders, truck, trucks, SUV, SUVs, many many more!! I can make a hoodliner insulator/insulation from my aircraft firewall material for ANY CAR ON THE ROAD!
Hoodliners: $85, $95 for the larger vehicles, heat-resistant decals: $15 each, Priority Mail shipping: U.S. $13, Canada: $23.
Local Detroit Metro installation available!
Do you belong to a Mustang Club or any other car club? I'm open to group/club buys at a lower price! Please send me an e-mail or call my cell phone!
PAYPAL accepted, contact GONZALO DUQUE "GONZO" at tbirddmnd@att.net
or call 734-637-8596 (AT&T cell) for more information! I speak Spanish too - Yo hablo espaƱol. I'm in the Detroit metro area of Michigan, and I can also install my liner on your car. For PayPal I'd need to know the e-mail address you use on it, this way I can send an invoice your way. Thanks for looking!!!











