About my hoodliners

I created this blog page to show and inform car owners about the aircraft firewall material hood liners I fabricate and sell for Ford Mustangs, Thunderbirds, Buick Grand Nationals, Chevy Camaros, Corvettes, Jaguars and many other cars. My hoodliners are an acoustical and thermal insulation FAR superior to the stock foam pressed fiberglass liners that come from the factory, a better alternative to Dynamat, W-M-S, and other aftermarket insulators! My hood liner insulators are made of ¼ inch thick closed-cell vinyl nitrile for the military, civilian aviation and aerospace industry in the form of a mat, smooth on one side and very durable, effective to over 225 degrees F. This material is made for aircraft firewalls and bulkheads and is far superior to the original factory stock hood liner. It's FAA-approved, and as such must stand up to forces and temperature fluctuations that cars don't experience. It holds up very well, much better than the OEM hood pad and any other reproductions, keeps the exterior of the hood cool and will not reflect engine heat back down toward your intake. This material is also used by NASA!!

This liner is in one piece, the side that faces out is smooth and will NOT soak up any underhood fluids, oil or lubricants! It can be wiped clean with a terry cloth towel and some Windex or even water! A heat-resistant silver vinyl decal comes with the liner, EXCEPT FOR ALL FORD AND LINCOLN-MERCURY MODELS - THESE COME PLAIN ONLY WITH NO DECALS. Please let me know if you'd like the decals in another color other than silver. Available colors are red, blue, white, orange, yellow, green and gold. Silver is the most popular color. FYI: these decals WILL NOT adhere to the stock liners due to the type of fiberglass material the stock ones are made of. It's been tried before and they just won't stick! The liner material itself is not stiff; it won't "stick out" like the factory liner which has some "give", the original one "flexes" back and forth if you push on it. My liner will adhere to the ridges and contours of the underhood area, giving it the form you can see in the images here, using 3M #80 spray-on adhesive found ONLY at the Home Depot - Lowe's doesn't carry it. This gives more clearance underneath while ensuring insulation - helpful if you have current rubbing issues due to export braces or pulleys, etc.



I've been to a LOT of car shows and I've seen MANY, MANY dirty original hoodliners. I spoke with several car owners and they're receptive and interested in having me make them a hoodliner to clean up their underhood area. How about your car? And what's the big deal about the hoodliner anyway? Because a dirty and torn original liner will DETRACT from the appearance of your engine bay, no matter how clean your engine is, even if it's better than on the day it rolled off the factory line! Take a look at your original liner if you have one - can you use my help? If you don't have a liner and your underhood gets dirty, could you use one of mine? Want to stand out at a car show or a cruise/meet with my aircraft liner and decal? People have e-mailed and called me saying the hoodliner gets noticed before the engine and components! What a compliment!


My liners have been brought to the attention of the Roush restoration department and to Steve Saleen (in person by a buyer) and they are both indicating that my liner is made of a high quality material that is a better alternative to the stock insulation. In an image on the gallery page you can see Steve Saleen himself signing a white Mustang he once owned - WITH MY LINER AND DECAL ALREADY ON THE CAR. Jack Roush has also signed Roush Mustangs with my hoodliner and ROUSH decals installed.

Compare my aircraft firewall material hood liner to the factory original or factory replacement (if it's even available!). My hood liner is fire retardant, insulates against heat and sound, resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and will not rot but it's not indestructible. If you pull it too hard or gouge it with a tool it will tear. Handle it carefully. It is washable and comes with a colorful decal. The original liner made out of pressed fiberglass latex foam is not fire retardant, and somewhat insulates against heat and sound. The original liner is not resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and it will rot and come apart. The original also didn't come with a decal. OK, some models had embossing, but it's hard to see and doesn't stand out - especially with a dirty factory liner.

Used as a hoodliner/sound barrier/absorber for soundproofing the car engine compartments of cars and trucks, it is also useful for boats, (won't absorb moisture) and RVs and their generator compartments. Gives a better appearance than the stock foam hoodliner. If you have a show car or enter your car in shows my liner will set your engine bay apart from the others. If your car is a daily driver this liner will still make your underhood look great! It adds a cleaner look to your engine compartment. How many car shows have you gone to or seen pictures of on the internet and while the engines look super-clean the hoodliners are filthy? I've personally seen it may times! I can remedy this!



My hoodliner is pre-cut to fit your car with mounting holes punched, and cut-outs for lights and intercoolers, air scoops. etc. Installation is easy using 3M #80 spray adhesive, found only at the Home Depot in the glue/adhesive section in the paint area. Lowes doesn't carry it! 3M #80 adhesive is the ONLY spray-on adhesive recommended for this liner as it stands up to the heat. Use of any other adhesive will cause the liner to sag or come loose, interfering with throttle linkage, pulleys, fan belts, engine components, etc. You can see the images of this liner, and it really is far better than the OEM hood pad.


I have this liner installed on my own daily driver 1997 Ford Thunderbird Limited Edition, with a decal, and it holds up very well! The 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC above is my car as well and it has my liner with a Lincoln logo. It keeps the exterior of the hood cool and will not reflect engine heat back down toward your intake. I've had my liner installed for over 5 years now, and it looks exactly like the day I installed it. It hasn't gotten dirty at all!


One of the biggest sound problems with a vehicle’s noise reduction is that sound is coming right up through the hood and then through the windshield. (Because glass is almost transparent to sound!) Car engine noise mixed with road noise blows right through into the passenger compartment. Auto generated sound is mostly low frequency, one of the hardest sounds to block or absorb. Hoodliner material can also be used on metal surfaces such as trunk areas and door panels, where reverberation is a problem in high-end sound installations, greatly reducing road noise!


Remove the hood, (mark your bolt mountings) remove/discard all the old insulation. If you have the plastic hood tabs pry them up gently in a back-and-forth twisting motion while prying up - you'll be re-using them after you clean them. Place hood on a worktable with the underside up. Clean the hood underside thoroughly; “Simple Green”, "Fantastik", "Zep", or your favorite degreaser and rags/paper towels work well. Test fit the liner dry to line it up with the hood and the fastener holes. It’s pre-cut to fit without trimming but if you stretch it, don't worry, you can trim it with an X-Acto knife.


Mask off outer areas that aren't going to be covered to protect from overspray. Apply the 3M #80 adhesive to both material and hood. Apply and press down well. Re-attach the plastic hood pins, you'll see how flush they sit now. I don't carry the pins but you can get them at Auto Zone or any good auto parts store, even the junkyard!


The hood MUST come off for proper installation of the liner - this is NOT a big deal! Why does the hood have to come off? It comes off because the liner must be installed with spray adhesive and if you don't mask off areas then the glue will get onto places you don't want glue on, such as the windshield, the engine, fenders, cowling, etc. It would get VERY messy. Plus gravity will work against you and your arms will get tired trying to work with them above your head. Ever try cleaning the ceiling fan blades? Your arms hurt after a while, right? My liner is not stiff like the original, it's made of a SUPERIOR material and installing it with just the plastic hood pins and no adhesive is not recommended. It will SAG in areas not held in by clips! If you have a helper then removal of the hood and installation back on the car with the new liner will take about an hour. You can lay your hood on a large worktable or a plywood on a couple of sawhorses, cushioned with some old blankets or sheets to protect the paint. I include instructions for both the liner and the decals, and in those instructions I provide my AT&T cell phone number if you need my help during installation. So far no one has called needing my help so it's not impossible to install my liner! Still not sure? Read the true testimonials above!


Here's a link to my images on Flickr, you'll see many pictures that people have sent in and ones that I took myself during and after the install of the liner:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/47561275@N00


Keep in mind that if you were to find factory hoodliners/insulation pads they would run anywhere from $100 or MORE depending on model year and availability. That's IF they are available - they readily aren't, not at the dealerships' parts departments - they have to order them and they're made of the same stock pressed fiberglass! Most of the original hood insulation pads have been discontinued from the factory and are difficult if not impossible to locate! Even if you did find one get ready to pay oversized shipping! Guess what? They're made of the original inferior material. They wouldn't have the same quality as mine and will become dirty and rot with time - bringing you right back to square one! Which means you waste your money on that original material liner. Plus you'd be paying MORE than what I charge for my liner and you'd be getting an INFERIOR product, and paying oversized shipping!!


I was recently contacted by a member of a Jaguar Owners Club / Jaguar Forums and he indicated interest by the owners of the XJS community. I can provide my aircraft firewall material liner for the 1975 to 1996 Jaguar XJS-V6 and V12, as well as many other Jaguar models with the leaping cat and JAGUAR lettering underneath. Most certainly a major upgrade to the crumbling original bonnet insulation material.


Some examples of other cars I can provide liners for, and this list can be expanded on (okay - so these are keywords too!): Honda Accord Civic Hybrid Prelude, Toyota Camry, Avanti, Aston Martin, Audi, Bugatti, Cadillac, Chevy, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Chrysler 200, 300, Crossfire, Cobalt, Cobalt SS, Delorean DMC, Dodge Challenger, Charger, SRT8, Dodge Avenger, Viper, Mopar, Ram 1500, 2500, 3500, Ferrari, Geo, Hemi, Isuzu, Lamborghini, Maserati, Mazda, Mercedes Benz hood pad, AG Mercedes, Lotus, Magnum, MOCSEM, Motorsport, Motorcraft, Lexus, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Datsun, Pantera, Peugeot, Pontiac, Pontiac G6, Pontiac G8, PT Cruiser, Solstice, Saab, Saturn Sky, Subaru, Plymouth, Mazda RX7 hood liner, Renault, Rodeo, Skylark, Stage 1, Trans Am, Firebird, Impala SS, Volkswagen, Volkswagon, VW, Volvo, Acura, Oldsmobile Cutlass Hurst Olds 442 W-30, W-31, Rocket, 350, F-150, F-250, Ranger, Edge, Escape, Fusion, Taurus, EcoBoost, Focus, Flex, Explorer, Expedition, Windstar, Freestar, Limited, SE, SES, SEL, Freestyle, Transit Connect, hood blanket, bonnet shield, 1964 ('64), 1965 ('65), 1966 ('66), 1967 ('67), 1968 ('68), 1969 ('69), 1970 ('70), 1971 ('71), 1972 ('72), 1973 ('73), 1974 ('74), 1975 ('75), 1976 ('76), 1977 ('77), 1978 ('78), 1979 ('79), 1980 ('80), 1981 ('81), 1982 ('82), 1983 ('83), 1984 ('84), 1985 ('85), 1986 ('86) including SVO, 1987 ('87), 1988 ('88), 1989 ('89), 1990 ('90), 1991 ('91), 1992 ('92), 1993 ('93), 1994 ('94), 1995, ('95), 1996 ('96), 1997 ('97), 1998 ('98), 1999 ('99), 2000 ('00), 2001 ('01), 2002 ('02), 2003 ('03), 2004 ('04), 2005 ('05), 2006 ('06), 2007 ('07), 2008 ('08), 2009 ('09), 2010 ('10), 2011 ('11), 2012 ('12), 2013 ('13), 2015 ('15), 2016 ('16), 2017 ('17), 2018 ('18), 2019 ('19), 2020 ('20), GT, GT Premium, Cobra, 35th Anniversary, 40th Anniversary, 45th Anniversary, California Special, Boss, Boss 302, Shinoda, Legacy, Laguna Seca, Stroker, Supercharged, Supercharger, 5.0 LX 302 V8, 4.6 281, and V6 model years, including convertible, coupe, hardtop, 4 cylinders, truck, trucks, SUV, SUVs, hood clearance, many many more!! I can make a hoodliner insulator/insulation from my aircraft firewall material for ANY CAR ON THE ROAD! HOOD LINERS AVAILABLE NOW FOR THE 2004-2010 CHEVY COBALT AND COBALT SS!!


Aircraft Firewall Material Hoodliners: ON SALE for $79.99 for most vehicles and $89.99 for the larger ones. This INCLUDES a decal of your choice - EXCEPT FOR ALL FORD AND LINCOLN-MERCURY MODELS WHICH COME PLAIN WITH NO DECAL! The regular price is $85, $95 for the larger vehicles. Priority Mail shipping: U.S. $13, Canada: $23. Local Detroit Metro installation available - I can install your new aircraft firewall material hoodliner that you purchase from me! This really is an excellent way of dressing up your underhood!

See if your car is already on my list of hoodliners that I fabricate: AVAILABLE HOODLINERS. If your car isn't on the list please e-mail me to see about providing one for you!



PAYPAL accepted - see the BUY NOW buttons on the ORDER YOUR HOODLINER PAGE. You can contact GONZALO DUQUE "GONZO" at tbirddmnd@att.net or call 734-637-8596 (AT&T cell) for more information on how to order! CREDIT CARDS ARE ACCEPTED THROUGH PAYPAL AS WELL - YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE A PAYPAL MEMBER! For PayPal you can use the BUY NOW buttons on the order page. Ordering is by car make, the models are in the drop-downs.

 
If your car isn't in the drop-down menus please contact me! I can also send you an invoice directly from PayPal. I'd need to know the e-mail address you use on it, this way I can send an invoice your way. Very easy, it works exactly like paying for something you win on eBay. You can also use PayPal with a credit/debit card without having to be a PayPal member.


I have voicemail if I can't answer my cell phone, please leave me a message and I'll get back to you! I speak Spanish too - yo hablo español. I'm in the Detroit metro area of Michigan, and I can also install my liner on your car. I am making liners all the time and will do so for a very long time to come! I'm a one-guy operation and if I don't answer your e-mail right away don't worry, I'll make every effort to answer as soon as I can!


Thanks for looking and hopefully I can make a liner for your vehicle!!! Thanks to everyone who has been purchasing my hoodliners to dress up your underhood! I'm very honored and happy to help you out! I get immediate notification to my e-mail when you do purchase. CLICK HERE TO ORDER MY HOODLINER FOR YOUR CAR!