Does the hood really need to be removed to put your liner on?
Yes, it does, it's virtually impossible and at the very least difficult to install my aircraft firewall material hoodliner with the hood still on the car.

How does it attach? Can I just use the plastic push pins?
It's attached to the hood with 3M #80 spray adhesive. Using the plastic push pins alone is not recommended because the liner will sag in areas not held in by the tabs. The holes are punched on the liner and serve two purposes: 1) to ensure as you install the liner that you are installing the liner correctly. The holes line up with the holes in the underhood for the plastic pins indicating it's correctly aligned. 2) Once the liner is installed you can insert the plastic pins to complete the "stock look". The liner will "grab" the pins and they'll seat well.

Do you sell the pins or the 3M #80 spray adhesive?
No I don't, you can clean and re-use the original pins if you have them. If not you can find them at any good auto parts stores or even the U-Pull junkyard. The adhesive is found only at the Home Depot, in the paint department. Other stores like Lowes do not carry the #80 adhesive. It's not a good idea for me to send the adhesive in the box with your new liner since it may travel in the cargo hold of an airplane and the can may burst during flight.

I can't find 3M #80 spray adhesive but I see other 3M numbers like 75, 77, and 90. Can't I just use those?
No, #80 is most closely formulated for the type of material my liners are made of, plus it's heat rated to 200 degrees. Other adhesive numbers such as 75, 77, and 90 are made for other chemical materials and have lower heat ratings. Someone used 77 on their liner and it came unglued - the result was a liner laying on top of the engine. Luckily nothing happened to the liner or the engine, and the result was a quick sanding of the underhood with a 3M sanding sponge to remove the now-dried 77 adhesive, and a re-installation using the correct #80. The owner reported much better results! If you can't locate 3M #80 at all, then the suggestion is to use a spray or even a liquid adhesive that can be brushed on, such as contact cement, as long as it's made for rubber/vinyl, and is heat rated for 180 to 200+ degrees. The liner is neither rubber nor vinyl, and it does have components of neoprene.

Why is your hood liner better than the stock one?
My hoodliner is INFINITELY better than the stock pressed fiberglass. My hood liner is fire retardant, insulates against heat and sound, resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and will not rot. It's washable and comes with a colorful decal. The original liner, made out of fiberglass latex foam, is not fire retardant, and somewhat insulates against heat and sound. The original liner is not resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and it will get very dirty, greasy, will rot and come apart. My liner gives a better appearance than the stock foam hoodliner. On top of all that, let's say you can locate an NOS original liner. Sure, you can install that NOS original without removing the hood - just pop the pins in and you're done in five minutes or so. BUT, give it time and that NOS original will get dirty again just like the first one did because that original pressed fiberglass material is a magnet for dirt, grease, etc, and it will fall apart just like your first one did. Mine won't. Now, compare the price between mine and that NOS original - and that's IF you can find that NOS original. You will spend more on that NOS original than mine. And that NOS will fail again, and you lost that money! For instance, the price of an NOS original liner for the Buick Grand National is astronomical! Check the 'Bay and see for yourself! I've seen some over $350, plus $150 or more in oversized shipping! Why? That's ridiculous and insane! My liners make better sense!

I have an aftermarket hood, can you make me a liner?
Although my liners are mainly for stock hoods I have made liners for aftermarket hoods before. What I would need to know is what size you need covered and I could send you a section of the liner material in those dimensions, width x height. You would then need to trim-to-fit using an X-Acto knife or a utility knife, rounding out the corners, making any curves, and any openings for airflow. A heat-resistant decal would come with the liner section as well. Simply let me know how much you need and I can send a PayPal invoice your way to the e-mail address you specify. You would of course still need to attach it to your underhood with the 3M #80 spray adhesive.

I see the picture of the grey 2006 Mustang GT and it has a trunk liner, yet you don't mention these at all. Can you make trunk lid liners?Yes, same idea as the aftermarket hoods as I don't have templates for them. The 2006 GT lid liner sent was 48" x 24" and cost $50. The 2005 to 2009 Mustangs would have the same dimensions for the trunk lids and you'd get that liner material in that size. You will then need to trim-to-fit using an X-Acto knife.

Can the liner and decal hold up to the engine heat?Yes, the aircraft firewall material is heat-rated to over 225 degrees Fahrenheit, 108 degrees Celsius. The vinyl decal is heat-resistant as well and won't be affected. In fact, I know of two instances where engine heater hoses burst and sprayed hot coolant/anti-freeze onto the liner and decal. Both were totally UNSCATHED and nothing happened! The liners were cleaned off leaving no stains, and no change in performance. Remember that this liner doesn't absorb any underhood fluids or lubricants.

Cool looking, but after reading the description, I think this hood liner will NOT do what it is intended to do - - fall down and smother an engine fire. It seems like it's made of a flammable material, which would only burn more. There's a reason the stock hood liner is designed the way it is. It seems this one is just designed to look nice.Sorry, but you DID NOT read the description or you didn't pay attention! The liner material can take the heat underneath. ALSO: the factory hood liner IS NOT intended to smother and put out a fire - that is a complete myth, totally false. The stock liner will burn like dry tinder! It's not designed to fall down on top of the engine to smother a fire. If a car ever burns that way and is fully engulfed and involved in flames there's no way you're going to salvage it! Car engineers around the world put the hood insulation liner there strictly for noise suppression and somewhat for paint protection. That misconception about the liner smothering an engine fire is TOTALLY FALSE, yet it keeps popping up in car forums all over the internet.

I've seen reproduction liners all over the internet, some are inexpensive. I've even found an NOS hoodliner for my car that I can put on without taking my hood off and using glue. What makes your hoodliner better than those?
Think about what those reproduction hoodliners are made of. Many are made from thick gray or yellow fiberglass that's better suited for putting in between drywall like that R-12 or R-13 stuff you would find at Home Depot or Lowes! Brand new, right out of the bag that stuff loosens fiber and dust particles before it's even mounted on a hood. Car owners really want that very inferior stuff over their clean engines? One seller even wrote on his description on that very famous auction site: "be careful when you install this insulation that it doesn't brush on your skin. Wear gloves and long sleeves to keep the fiberglass from irritating your skin". Come on! It deteriorates and gets dirty faster than the NOS liner! Speaking of the NOS liner yes you can mount it on your hood with the push pins in about 5 to 10 minutes and be done with it. But give it time and it will fall apart and get dirty just like your original one did. How much did you pay for your reproduction or NOS liner? You're right back where you started with a dirty hoodliner. You can't put decals on the NOS or the reproduction liner either, they won't stay on. There simply is no comparison with the NOS or other fiberglass liners against mine, the liners I offer are designed to stay on for the life of your car.

How come you no longer provide any Ford or GM decals? What happened?
I am unable to provide any Ford, Lincoln-Mercury logos or decals for my hoodliners, the same goes for all General Motors brands. I know the decals make my hoodliners stand out but unfortunately I can no longer provide Ford or GM decals. I can do custom logos and text, that's pretty much it, as long as it's not any official Ford or GM logo coming from me.

You can still put a decal on your liner, but of course you'd have to source that yourself from an authorized Ford or GM licensed retailer. If you do, ensure that the decal is at least 3.0 mil thick and made of "calendared" vinyl. Both of these specs will perform well on the liner!

Remember that you want to replace your original failing stock hood liner insulation, mine are the perfect solution. The decal is only the "icing" and can be purchased from a licensed source.